After a long season on the water, the last thing anyone wants to think about is where to park their boat for the off-season. But I see it all the time down here in Miami and Fort Lauderdale—guys just throw a cheap blue tarp over their boat in some random lot and hope for the best. Six months later, they’re calling me with a hull full of mold, faded gelcoat, and a family of raccoons living in the cabin.
It drives me nuts. Your boat is a big investment, and leaving it to get baked by the Florida sun or soaked in our afternoon downpours is just asking for trouble. Finding the right spot isn’t just about parking; it’s about doing it the right way so your boat is ready to go when you are, without a bunch of expensive surprises.
This isn’t going to be some corporate brochure. This is my advice, mechanic to boat owner, on how to handle outdoor storage. We’ll go over the different types of lots, what you should really be paying, and the prep work that’ll save you a ton of money and headaches down the road. Let’s make sure your boat survives the off-season in one piece.
Table of Contents
The Lay of the Land: Your Storage Options
When you start looking, you’ll see a few different kinds of outdoor storage. They all have their pros and cons, and what’s right for your buddy’s 18-foot skiff might not be right for your 28-foot cruiser. You’re trying to balance price with protection.
I put this table together based on what I see every day here in South Florida.
| Storage Type | What It Is | Typical Cost (South FL) | My Two Cents |
|---|---|---|---|
| Uncovered Lot | A basic, open-air parking spot on gravel or pavement. It’s the no-frills option. | $50 – $200 / month | Cheapest way to go, but your boat is exposed to everything. You absolutely need a top-quality, custom-fit cover. Don’t even think about using a cheap tarp. |
| Covered Storage | A dedicated spot with a roof over it, like a big carport. The sides are usually open. | $75 – $150 / month | This is a good middle ground. It keeps the direct sun and rain off your boat, which makes a huge difference for your gelcoat and upholstery. Worth the extra cash, in my opinion. |
| Dry Stack | They use a giant forklift to put your boat on a big rack. Some are indoors, some are outdoors. | $10 – $40 per foot / month | The most convenient and secure option. No trailer needed. But access can be limited—you usually have to call ahead. It’s great for boats up to about 35 feet. |
What’s This Going to Cost Me?
Everyone wants to know the bottom line. The prices I put in the table are a good starting point, but a few things can make that number swing up or down.
First, location, location, location. A spot right near a popular marina in Fort Lauderdale is going to cost more than one 30 miles inland. Second, size matters. A big pontoon boat takes up more space than a jet ski, so you’ll pay more. Some places charge a flat rate, others charge by the foot. Always get the total price for your boat.
And watch out for hidden fees. Ask if things like using the wash-down station or getting after-hours access cost extra. Some places offer discounts if you pay for a whole year upfront, so it’s worth asking if you plan on storing it long-term. My advice? Get quotes from three different places. You’d be surprised how much prices can vary for the same level of service.
Keeping Your Boat from Walking Away
Let’s talk security. A boat sitting on a trailer is a tempting target for thieves. The storage facility needs to do its part, but you have to do yours, too.
When I check out a lot for a client, I look for a few things. A solid fence around the whole property is a must. The gate should be controlled with a keypad or a key card, not just a simple padlock. I also look for good lighting and cameras—and I mean cameras that look like they actually work. I always tell guys to visit the lot at night. See what it really looks like when it’s dark. That tells you everything you need to know.
But don’t rely on the facility alone. Here’s your personal security checklist—the stuff you absolutely have to do:
- Take everything valuable off the boat. I’m talking about your GPS, VHF radio, fishing gear, personal items. If it’s not bolted down, take it home. An empty boat is a boring boat for a thief.
- Lock your trailer. Use a high-quality hitch lock so no one can just hook it up and drive away. A good wheel lock (or “boot”) is another great deterrent.
- Consider a GPS tracker. You can hide a small GPS unit somewhere on the boat. If the worst happens, you can tell the cops exactly where it is. It’s cheap insurance.
- Don’t forget your insurance. Call your insurance agent and tell them where the boat is being stored. Make sure your policy covers theft and damage while in storage.
Don’t Just Park It—Prep It
This is the part everyone gets lazy on, and it’s where most of the expensive problems start. You can’t just pull your boat out of the water and stick it in a lot for six months. You have to prep it.
First, clean it thoroughly. Wash and wax the entire hull and deck. Salt, bird droppings, and dirt will eat away at your gelcoat if you let them sit. Clean out the inside, too. Remove all food, trash, and wet towels. You don’t want to come back to a science experiment.
Next, the fuel system. The ethanol in modern gasoline loves to absorb water, which can lead to phase separation and a whole lot of gunk in your tank. I’ve had to do expensive fuel system clean-outs that could have been avoided. Either fill the tank to about 90% full and add a good marine fuel stabilizer, or have a mechanic completely drain the tank for very long-term storage.
And the battery. Disconnect the terminals. Better yet, take the battery out of the boat and bring it home. Store it in a cool, dry place and hook it up to a trickle charger once a month to keep it healthy.
Finally, cover it properly. A high-quality, breathable, custom-fit boat cover is one of the best investments you can make. It’ll keep the sun, rain, and dirt off while letting moisture escape. That cheap blue plastic tarp from the hardware store? It traps moisture, which leads to mold and mildew, and it will flap in the wind and scratch your gelcoat. I saw a beautiful Sea Hunt last spring with mildew stains all over the vinyl because the owner used a plastic tarp. It was a costly fix.
Putting It All Together: Picking the Right Spot
Okay, so how do you choose? Start with your boat’s size and your budget. That’ll narrow down your options pretty quick. Then, think about how you use your boat. If you want to be able to grab it for a spontaneous trip, a 24/7 access lot is better than a dry stack that needs 24 hours’ notice.
Once you have a couple of places in mind, go visit them. Walk the property. Talk to the manager. Ask them these questions—this is what I’d ask before signing anything:
- What are the exact dimensions of the space? Will my boat and trailer fit comfortably?
- Can you walk me through your security features? Are the cameras monitored? What happens if there’s a break-in?
- Are there any fees besides the monthly rent? What’s your policy on late fees?
- What are the access hours? Can I get in on weekends and holidays?
- Do I need to show proof of insurance? What’s the facility’s liability if my boat is damaged or stolen?
Finding the right spot takes a little legwork, but it’s worth it. It’s about peace of mind. You want to know that when you’re ready to hit the water, your boat is too.
Dockside FAQ: Your Questions Answered
I get asked these same questions all the time, so here are some quick answers.
Can’t I just keep my boat in my driveway?
You can, if your HOA allows it. But your driveway doesn’t have a security fence, cameras, or a controlled gate. It’s also more exposed to potential theft and vandalism. Plus, depending on where you live, it might violate local ordinances. A dedicated facility is almost always a safer bet.
How important is a custom boat cover, really?
It’s critical. A generic, one-size-fits-all cover will sag, pool water, and flap in the wind, which can chafe and damage your gelcoat. A custom-fit cover is designed to be snug, shed water properly, and breathe to prevent moisture buildup. It’s the single best piece of protective gear for outdoor storage.
What about rats, raccoons, and other pests?
It’s a real problem. Pests look for dark, quiet places to nest. The first step is to remove every last scrap of food from the boat. I also recommend placing mothballs or peppermint oil-soaked cotton balls in a few spots inside the cabin and storage compartments—rodents hate the smell. Some guys even put steel wool in exhaust ports to block entry points.
Should I drain the fuel tank or fill it with stabilizer?
For most seasonal storage (3-6 months), I recommend filling the tank to about 90% and adding a quality marine fuel stabilizer. A full tank leaves less room for air, which means less condensation (water) can form. For storage longer than a year, it might be better to have a professional completely drain the tank and lines.
Does my boat insurance cover it while in storage?
Usually, yes, but you have to check your specific policy. Call your insurance agent and tell them exactly where and how the boat will be stored. Some policies have different deductibles or coverage limits for when the boat is on land versus in the water. You need to know you’re covered for theft, fire, vandalism, and storm damage.
Leave a Reply