A Mechanic’s No-BS Guide to Boat Inspections

I’ve been fixing boats around Miami and Fort Lauderdale for more than 15 years, and I’ve seen more perfect days on the water go south than I can count. And usually, it starts with something small—a hose that should’ve been replaced, a battery terminal that was a little loose. That brief moment of doubt you get, “Did I check everything?”—that’s your gut telling you to be prepared.

A thorough inspection isn’t just some chore you do to tick a box. It’s the one thing that keeps your day from turning into a disaster. It’s what keeps you from calling me for a tow when you’re five miles off Stiltsville with a dead engine. This isn’t just theory; it’s about protecting your boat, your wallet, and most importantly, everyone you’ve got on board with you.

Think of it this way: you wouldn’t drive your car across the state without checking the tires and oil. Your boat deserves the same respect, especially since there are no service stations out on the water. We’re going to walk through what I check, when I check it, and why it matters. This is the real-world guide to keeping your boat ready and reliable.

Why This Stuff Actually Matters

I tell every customer the same thing: an inspection isn’t a “nice-to-have,” it’s your peace-of-mind package. It’s what lets you relax and actually enjoy your day instead of worrying about what might go wrong. Ignoring this stuff is how a fun fishing trip turns into a rescue mission. A well-inspected boat is a safe boat. Period.

This isn’t just about avoiding a fine from the FWC, either. It’s about catching a small fuel leak before it becomes a fire. It’s about spotting a frayed belt before it snaps and leaves you stranded. Last summer, I had a guy named Ray call me in a panic. His bilge pump failed after a small leak started, and his boat was taking on water fast off Key Biscayne. A five-minute check before he left the dock would have caught the faulty pump. An ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure out here.

To do it right, you need a rhythm. It’s not one single check; it’s a routine. Here’s how I break it down for the guys I work with:

Inspection Type	When to Do It	What It Covers	My Two Cents
Pre-Season Check	Once a year, before your main season	A deep dive. Engine service, hull integrity, all systems, safety gear expiration dates.	This is your big annual physical. It sets the tone for the whole year. Don’t skip it. This is where you find the problems that have been brewing over the winter.
Pre-Voyage Sweep	Every single time before you leave the dock	Quick but critical. Fluids, belts, batteries, bilge pump, safety gear accessibility, weather check.	This is your 10-minute lifesaver. It takes less time than it takes to load the cooler. This is what catches the problems that pop up between trips.
Ongoing Vigilance	During and after every trip	Listening for new noises, watching the gauges, checking for leaks, rinsing everything down.	Your boat is always talking to you. You just have to learn to listen. A new vibration or a weird smell is a warning sign.

From Bow to Stern: Checking the Bucket That Keeps the Water Out

Your hull and deck—that’s the whole ballgame. It’s the bucket that keeps the ocean on the outside. You have to know it’s solid. I start every major inspection by getting up close and personal with the boat’s structure.

First, I walk the entire hull. I’m looking for cracks, especially around the transom and where the deck meets the hull. I run my hand over it to feel for blisters or soft spots, which are a dead giveaway for moisture intrusion and rot underneath. A little tap with your knuckle can tell you a lot; a solid “thud” is good, a hollow sound is bad news. And down here in Florida, you’ve got to check for marine growth. Barnacles and algae don’t just slow you down; they hide problems.

Next, I’m on the deck. I walk every inch, feeling for soft spots. Any fitting—cleats, railings, rod holders—I give them a good tug to make sure they’re solid. A loose cleat isn’t just annoying; in rough seas, it can become a real hazard.

Finally, check every drain, scupper, and through-hull fitting. Make sure they’re clear of debris and sealed tight. I’ve seen more water get into a boat through a leaky through-hull than you’d believe. You want water going out, not coming in.

The Heartbeat: Engine, Prop, and Mechanical Checks

This is my world. If the hull is the bucket, the engine is the heart that gets you home. Problems here are what leave you stranded.

First, I look at the propeller and drive unit. I check every blade for nicks, dings, or bends. Even a small dent can cause a vibration that’ll wreck your bearings over time. A buddy of mine, Manny, had a vibration he ignored on his Yamaha outboard… turned out to be a bent prop that wrecked his cutless bearing. A $200 problem became a $2,000 haul-out job.

Then, I dive into the engine room (or just the outboard, depending on the boat). Even before I touch anything, I just look. I’m searching for new leaks—oil, fuel, coolant. A clean engine is a happy engine because you can spot new problems instantly. Then I get my hands dirty:

• I check every belt for cracks and proper tension.
• I inspect every hose for softness, bulges, or cracks.
• I check the fluid levels—engine oil, coolant—and look at the color. Milky oil is a sign of water intrusion, and that’s a major problem.
• I check the battery terminals. They should be clean and tight. Corrosion is a power-killer.
• I test the steering and throttle controls. They should be smooth, not stiff or sloppy.

Finally, the fuel system. I check the tanks for any signs of corrosion or leaks and make sure the vents are clear. I look at the fuel lines—if they’re cracked or brittle, they get replaced. A clean fuel filter is cheap insurance against engine trouble.

Your Lifelines: Electrical, Bilge, and Navigation

If the engine is the heart, these are the nerves. When they fail, you’re in the dark and in trouble.

I start with the electrical system. Saltwater gremlins love to chew on wiring. I look for any corrosion, fraying, or loose connections. I flip every single switch: navigation lights, cockpit lights, everything. You don’t want to find out your stern light is out after sunset.

Next, the bilge system. Your bilge pump is your last line of defense. I test it every time. I manually flip the switch to hear it run, and if it has a float switch, I lift it to make sure it kicks on automatically. A functioning bilge pump is non-negotiable.

And finally, navigation and communication. I turn on the GPS or chartplotter (Garmin, Raymarine, whatever you have) to make sure it gets a signal. Down here, with all the shoals and channels, you need up-to-date charts. I do a radio check on the VHF. And I make damn sure my phone is fully charged. That’s your backup for your backup.

The “Oh Crap” Kit: Your Safety Arsenal

When things go wrong, this is the gear that saves lives. Not having it, or having expired gear, is just plain reckless. Don’t be that guy.

• Life Jackets (PFDs): You need one for every single person on board, and it has to be the right size. Kids need kid-sized jackets. They should be out and accessible, not buried under three bags and an anchor. I’ve seen FWC write plenty of tickets for that.
• Fire Extinguishers: Check the gauge to make sure it’s in the green and check the date. They expire. They need to be mounted where you can grab one in a split second. A small engine fire can turn into an inferno in less than a minute.
• Visual Distress Signals (Flares): Another one with an expiration date. Check it. Flares won’t do you any good if they’re from 1995. I’m a big fan of the electronic flares now; they last a lot longer.
• Sound Signaling Devices: Test your horn. I also keep a handheld air horn on board as a backup. You need to be able to make noise.
• First-Aid Kit: Go through it at the start of the season. Restock any used bandages and check expiration dates on ointments. You’ll be glad it’s ready when someone gets a hook in their thumb.
• Emergency Locator (EPIRB/PLB): If you go offshore, this is a must-have. It’s your direct line to the Coast Guard. Make sure the registration is current and check the battery’s expiration date. It’s the most important piece of safety gear you can own.

The Boring Stuff That’ll Save Your Butt

The inspection isn’t over when you’re done with the boat. The paperwork and planning are just as critical. I always check for current boat registration and insurance papers. Have your boater safety card ready.

Then, the float plan. It sounds formal, but it’s simple: tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to be back. A text to your wife or a buddy is better than nothing. If you don’t show up, they know where to start looking. It’s a huge deal.

And the weather. I check three different forecasts before I even think about leaving the dock. Conditions can turn in an instant here. A clear morning can become a nasty afternoon thunderstorm fast. Don’t get caught.

Finally, take two minutes to brief your crew. Show them where the life jackets and fire extinguishers are. A crew that knows what to do in an emergency is a safe crew.

Don’t Forget the Ride Home: Trailer Inspection

Your day isn’t over until the boat is back in the driveway. Driving down I-95 with a boat trailer that’s in bad shape is a nightmare waiting to happen. Before you tow, check your tires—including the spare. Check the lights. Check the brakes. And make sure the boat is strapped down tight. Dunking those axles in saltwater is tough on them, so pay extra attention to the wheel bearings.

Make It a Habit

Look, this all sounds like a lot, but once you get into the routine, it becomes second nature. A quick pre-voyage sweep takes 10 minutes, tops. Use a checklist on your phone or a laminated one you keep on the boat. And if you find something wrong, fix it. Don’t say, “I’ll get to it later.” “Later” is what gets people in trouble. A proactive boater is a boater who comes home safe every time.

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Your Questions Answered: Dockside Q&A

Here are a few questions I get all the time.